Category: History’s Gem of the Month

January 2009

This month the Gems from the Past include three post cards. I am not sure how and why it occurred, but 100 years ago post cards were often printed showing members of local families. I have included two below of my relatives. My great-grandparents, Jonas and Anna Hill, appear in both pictures. The photo with just the two of them was taken in front of Woodland Park, around 50 feet east of the main entrance. Notice all the trees, as compared to the “Woodless Park,” as my son, Jonathan, now refers to it. My grandparents emigrated from Finland in the late 1890s. Two of their kids (Eino and Emil) were born in Finland. My grandmother Elvi and Uncle Ernie were born in the U.S. The family picture was taken before my Uncle Ernie was born. One thing interesting that I learned while examining these photos, and reading the handwritten information on the back, is that my family’s name before leaving Finland was Maki. I’m not sure why it is, but we were never told that information.

The third post card shows The Vacationland car ferry. This was one of the last two ferries that operated to shuttle vehicles between the lower and upper peninsulas. The state of Michigan began the car ferry service in 1923. It was successful enough, especially as the number of cars on the roads increased dramatically during the 1920s, that the state expended funds to upgrade the ships and improve the docks, breakwaters, and parking at both Mackinaw City and St. Ignace. Each ferry had a regular crew of 36, with up to a hundred extra employees hired during the busy summer months.

By the time the Mackinac Bridge opened for business on November 1, 1957, only two ferries remained including the Vacationland and the Petoskey. On the final day, the Vacationland sailed from St. Ignace to Mackinaw City with about a thousand invitation-only guests.

To pay for the Mackinac Bridge, bonds were sold to fund the project. The agreement that allowed the state to sell the bonds prohibited the operation of any ferries between the two peninsulas. This provision was made to assure bond buyers that the expensive bridge would have no competition. Eventually, all of the ferries were either sold or scrapped.

Today, the Mackinac Bridge carries as many people in a single month as the entire ferry fleet carried in a year. But if it were not for the hardiness of the ferry operators and crew, the Upper Peninsula would not be what it is today.

December 2008

While conducting research last week at U of M’s library in Ann Arbor, I was very excited about all the agate genesis articles I was able to locate. I concentrated mostly on articles published in the last decade. However, I could not resist the temptation to print off a 66-page leaflet published by the Field Museum of Natural History in Chicago in 1927. The leaflet was written by Oliver C. Farrington, the Curator of Geology and is entitled: “Agate Physical Properties and Origin.” It is amazing that in the last 80 years, our knowledge of agates has not changed very much. Below are some excerpts from the leaflet.

“Agate is a variety of chalcedony chiefly distinguished by its banded or variegated structure and coloring. Its banded appearance is due to the fact that it is made up of a great number of exceedingly thin layers which appear as bands in cross section. As seen by the naked eye, these bands differ considerably in width, some seeming no wider than a line, while others may be a quarter to a half-inch wide. In reality, all these bands are made up of still finer ones, the individuals of which can be seen only with a microscope. In a section of agate only one inch in thickness, Sir David Brewster counted 17,000 such individual bands.”…

…“The most common and characteristic form of agates is one which in cross-section resembles an old-time bastion, a defensive work characterized by curving contours and salient angles. Agates of this pattern are known as “fortification: agates (Plate 1).” …

…”Agates are generally formed in cavities in volcanic rocks. In the escape of gases and vapors from such rocks on cooling, cavities similar to those seen when pasty substances are heated are often formed and remain open when the rock has cooled. The cavities are usually spheroidal in form or, more specifically, are often shaped like an almond, whence the term amygdaloidal, from the Greek word for almond, is applied to them. The size of these cavities is also often about that of the almond but they may be much lager. It is in cavities like these that agates are chiefly formed, occurring as a filling that takes the shape of the cavity. Being of very tough material, which resists both physical and chemical corrosion, the agate nodules (the lumps or masses formed by the filing of the cavities) are usually left intact after the rock about them has decomposed and hence agates are often found in soil or in beds of streams. In the latter case, they may occur far removed from the place of their origin. The size of the agate nodules varies according to the size of the cavity in which they are formed. From very minute, they run up to weights as high as 4,000 pounds.”…

…”No one who gives much consideration to the subject of agates, can fail to be impressed with the difficulty of explaining how they are formed. They appear to be made up of successive layers deposited on the walls of the interiors of cavities, each layer toward the interior being younger than the one preceding. Sometimes the process of deposition appears to have continued until the cavity was entirely filled, but in other cases, a vacancy still remains at the center. If the above is the method of formation, it is difficult to understand why the deposition of the first layer, or, at least of the first two or three layers, would not close the cavity to succeeding deposits.

Various attempts have been made to answer this question. Haldinger, a German geologist, writing about 1849, made the suggestion that the moisture ordinarily found in rocks, the so-called “mountain moisture” would “sweat” through into the cavities and that successive solutions of silica would thus enter through diffusion. This explanation seemed adequate to many investigators, but others have agreed with Noeggerath, a contemporary of Haidinger, that it is doubtful if solutions would continually enter the cavity in this manner, especially as the outer layers of agate nodules are known by agate cutters to be particularly hard and impervious to liquids. As a better explanation Noeggerath called attention to an apparent canal or conduit which can be seen leading outwards from the interior of most agates and which he believed remained open during the formation of the agate for the admission of percolating waters. … In some agates, several such so-called entrance canals are to be seen, but in some unfortunately for the theory, none can be found. Moreover, it is difficult to understand why such canals, if they ever existed, would remain open. The above theories, however, are the only ones that until recently have seemed at all worthy of credence as possible explanations of the manner of formation of agates and for many years were accepted by most investigators.”…

…”It is only recently that a theory for the formation of agates has been proposed which gives a totally different explanation from the above and which is in many respects more satisfactory than the earlier views. According to the latter theory, the rock cavity in which the agate is formed, first becomes more or less filled with silica in a colloidal (jelly-like) condition. In such a colloid a banded structure can be produced by processes, which can be illustrated with ordinary gelatin.

The following experiment as described by Ostwald in 1896 illustrates this process. If silver nitrate is introduced into a colloid which contains ammonium bi-chromate, silver chromate (a red salt) is at once formed, but it does not at first appear in a solid form. It is still dissolved. Gradually, however, through the continual formation of silver chromate, the solution becomes so concentrated that it must somewhere separate out. This separation takes place first at an edge. Then all the super-saturated substance makes its way to this edge and likewise separates out. An essential consequence of this is that adjacent to this deposit, a zone is formed which is free from silver chromate. But this zone also does not contain ammonium bi-chromate, for this has been used up by the silver nitrate. Here, then, no new silver chromate can form and the zone becomes colorless. The excess of silver nitrate pushes on, however, and by the same reactions forms a second band of silver chromate and a color-less zone. Continuation of this process gives a banded structure.”…

…”Besides explaining the banding, this view of the method of formation of agates also indicates why agate nodules are often hollow in the interior. Drying of the colloidal silica causes a shrinking in bulk which would often leave such a hollow. The theory also explains the frequent occurrence of quartz crystals in the interior of agates. Crystals cannot form in colloids on account of surface tension, but when the tension is relieved at the hollow interior of the nodule, complete crystallization can take place there.” …

…”According to the present view, then, fortification or common agates originate from a filling of hollow spaces in rocks by a silica colloid (jelly), within which an iron salt compound has been rhythmically deposited.”

November 2008

Probable Economic Impact of the Lakeshore

The most direct economic impact of the proposed lakeshore will be upon the forestry and recreation industries of the Upper Peninsula region. These industries and associated economic opportunities are examined here.

Forestry

Forest industries are the largest single source of employment in the Upper Peninsula region. In 1960, thee were an estimated 9,900 engaged in logging, and 8,300 in forest product manufacturing, making a total of 18,200 full-time equivalent workers. This was about 18 percent of the total workforce of approximately 100,000. The gross income of the Upper Peninsula forest industry was estimated at $109 million in 1960.

The area around the proposed lakeshore is even more dependent upon logging and forest manufacturing operations than is the Upper Peninsula generally. Mills now drawing partially upon raw material from the “recreation zone” employ 190 full-time and 66 part-time workers. Their payroll is reported at $875,000. There are, in addition, many mills and plants drawing raw material from the general vicinity. Although not currently using pulpwood from the Upper Peninsula, the Kimberly-Clark Paper Mill at Munising employs 500 to 600 workers. Within a radius of 70 miles of the proposed lakeshore, there are 400 to 500 men employed in the woods with annual payrolls in excess of $1,000,000.

Because of regeneration of forest stands in the Upper Peninsula region, new wood processing plant development, there is now taking place and is expected to continue. The proposed Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore is not expected to have a substantial influence on the possible location of new wood-using plants in the region, or on the operation of large plants that are there now. There will be, however, increased economic pressure on small mills operating in the immediate vicinity, if timber harvest is suspended in the “recreation zone.”

Tourism

Two recent estimates of 1960 tourist expenditures in the Upper Peninsula average to $110 million. Other studies have shown 25 to 27 percent of tourist expenditures becoming direct personal income. On this basis, the direct incomes to operators and employees from tourism in 1960 were $27,500,000. In terms of $5,000 jobs this is an employment of 5,500 full-time equivalents, although, like forestry, it is probable that several times as many individuals had at least part-time employment. Thus, tourism in the Upper Peninsula is a major source of employment. Rapidly increasing national demand suggests that tourism could be a still larger economic contributor to the region.

Alger County tourist expenditures have been as high as $2.9 million in 1957 but dropped to $1.3 million by 1961. The drop was part of a stagnation or decline across the entire region. This decline is confirmed not only by year to year estimates of total expenditures but by traffic counts over the region, crossing at Mackinac Bridge and attendance at state parks.

The proposed Pictured Rocks Lakeshore would be expected to make its major contribution to Upper Peninsula tourism by helping to strengthen the “image” of this “north woods and lakes country” as a tourist destination area. The lakeshore would add a major destination point at which recreation services – things to see and do — would be available. As a part of the National Park System, it would give national status to the Upper Peninsula. The lakeshore would be a significant addition to the complex of regional attractions: from Mackinac Bridge, Mackinac Island, Soo Locks and Tahquamenon Falls in the east; to the copper mines, ghost towns and Fort Wilkins of the Copper Country (northwest); the Porcupine Mountains State Park in the west; plus a wide variety of resorts and private recreation developments throughout the region. Finally, the positive action of developing the proposed lakeshore could be expected to help spark constructive developments by private firms in the tourism industry.

Estimates of the gross income and employment due to the proposed lakeshore vary depending upon the future character of the Upper Peninsula’s tourism industry. If the industry retains its present relatively passive nature, added gross income to the region might be only $2,967,000 ten years from the present, generating an additional 167 full-time job-equivalents earning an average of $5,000 per year. On the other hand, if a more aggressive tourism industry develops, the added income and employment due to the proposed lakeshore could be more than twice the above projections, or $6,242,700 and 365 jobs, respectively. Both of these projections include an estimated $166,700 spent for 27 full-time job-equivalents for operating and maintaining the proposed lakeshore. These projections extend ten years into the future.

The lower of the two estimates is based upon an estimate of 500,000 annual visitors to the lakeshore, should it have been in full operation in 1962. Since the actual projection is for ten years later, the 500,000 is increased by 50 percent to 750,000 as an estimate of growth that may occur in a decade. There are a number of good indices for such estimates: (1) Crossings of the St. Mary’s River at Sault Ste. Marie increased by 160,000 between 1960 and 1961 when the Canadian North Shore Route was opened; (2) The Cape Hatteras National Seashore had an attendance of 649,000 in 1962. (3) Attendance at the Porcupine Mountains State Park is approximately 200,000 (it has only one overlook). (4) A number of specific attractions in the Upper Peninsula have had rapid growth in visitation despite recent stagnation in the general tourism industry of the region. (5) Elements of the National Park System that are resource-based have been experiencing an annual increase in the use of 9 to 12 percent, thus, a 50 percent increase in ten years appears reasonable in a passive setting.

Taxation

Removal of all privately owned land in the “recreation zone” from tax rolls would reduce the combined incomes to Munising Township, Munising City, and Burt Township by about $12,400. This is made of property tax revenues plus a $771 payment from the State of Michigan in lieu of taxes on state-owned lands.

A partial immediate compensation for this tax income reduction will result from park development work. Preliminary plans program an expenditure of $5,826,950 for this purpose over a four-year period. If even the lowest estimate of added employment due to the lakeshore is realized, personal property taxes of employees alone would account for more than tax losses. Property value improvement due to expanded business should add even more tax revenues.

NOTE: In 1962 there were only 164 structures in the proposed lakeshore. While buildings are distributed throughout the area, most intensive developments are on Miners Beach, Grand Sable Lake, and in and near Munising City.

Economic Opportunities

Implementation of the proposed lakeshore would expand economic opportunities for private entrepreneurs. This increase will be in the tourism industry. Firms and individuals with land holdings in the vicinity may have especially favorable opportunities for business profit.

Forest industries will suffer a reduction in the form of fewer job opportunities in logging operations and accelerated pressures that have already caused the closing of many smaller mills. This loss will be offset by increases in tourist revenue and related job opportunities. Most of the firms owning large tracts of land for forestry purposes that are in the “recreation zone,” also have other holdings outside the proposed lakeshore. They are, thus, in one of the better positions to take advantage of new business opportunities that would develop; they have access to land, to financing and to top-level management — all of these are ingredients badly needed by the region’s tourism industry.

General Conclusions

Evidence of this study suggests a definite advantage to the economy of Alger County and the Upper Peninsula in the establishment of the proposed Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. This advantage would come through improved opportunities in the tourism industry. Local logging and milling operations would be curtailed but this loss would be much more than offset. In addition, it is expected that no important reduction in the region’s ability to attract wood processing industries would occur.

October 2008

Access and Circulation

A scenic road would make accessible much of the now remote shoreline and permit visitors to tour the entire length of the park. In places, this road would run along the rim of the uplands overlooking the important natural and scenic areas, leaving them road-free yet visible. Associated trails would lead into these areas (Minors, Chapel and Beaver Basins). Spurs to the main road would take the visitor to other superb vistas, important features, and within a short walking distance of waterfalls.

A trail system, complementing the interpretive road, would provide unlimited opportunities for exploring the lakeshore. This system would traverse the area from east to west, but shorter loop trails would also be provided. In most cases, the trails would be completely away from roads, particularly in the Miners Basin, along with the Pictured Rocks from Mosquito Harbor to Chapel Beach, the Beaver Basin, Au Sable Point and the Grand Sable Dunes.

An important means of viewing the scenic features of the shoreline would be by excursion boats plying the offshore waters of Lake Superior.

Camping and Picnicking

Visitors could enjoy the national lakeshore through camping and picnicking experiences. Three campgrounds available by road are proposed, the major one along Pine Bluff Beach. Here, vegetation, substratum, exposure, and proximity to Lake Superior are favorable factors. Other campgrounds are proposed for Grand Sable Dunes and Miners Basin. Four primitive campgrounds containing Appalachian-type shelters are planned to serve hikers. Tentative, these sites would be at Mosquito Harbor, Beaver Lake, Pine Bluff Beach and Au Sable Point.

Beach Use

Swimming in the cold (54 degrees) water of Lake Superior is never likely to be a popular pastime for any but the hardiest. Nevertheless, swimming is possible in several places. The shallow waters along the sandy west shore of Sand Point are currently used by swimmers. The small beach at the north end of Grand Sable Lake is and could continue to be, used for swimming in conjunction with a proposed contact station; picnic ground and dunes access point.

The wealth of sandy beaches in the proposed Lakeshore provides space for several beach uses. Twelve miles of undeveloped beach stretch between the east end of the Pictured Rocks and Au Sable Point, and would be available for beachcombing, hiking and sunbathing.

Boating and Canoeing

The open waters of Lake Superior are too dangerous for small boats but some of the inland lakes should be excellent for boating and canoeing. Water skiing and boating on Grand Sable Lake and canoeing in some of the more remote lakes could be popular activities for lakeshore visitors.

Hunting and Fishing

Fishermen now seek the streams and lakes in the Pictured Rocks Region because the combination of cool climate and good supply of pure water makes them excellent for trout and pike. Fishing is especially popular when the steelhead trout swim up the streams in the spring to spawn. Hunting for rugged grouse, whitetail deer and other game in season would be permitted in designate areas in accordance with Federal and state laws, except in zones which the Secretary of the Interior may designate for reasons of public safety, administration, or public use and enjoyment.

Winter Use

People would visit the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore in the winter to participate in a variety of recreational activities. Some of the inland lakes are ideal for ice boating and fishing. The Beaver Basin area could provide opportunities for tobogganing and downhill and cross-country skiing. Also, wildlife can be observed throughout the winter season. Another recreational activity that could occur is winter camping. Many people also would probably visit the lakeshore to view the northwoods winter landscape from the scenic drive.

Interpretation

The quality of the visitor’s experience depends upon the degree and depth to which he understands the various aspects and interplay of all the values within the lakeshore. To assist the visitor’s enjoyment of recreational opportunities and in recognizing and understanding the region’s natural values, the National Park Service would conduct an interpretive program on the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. Such a program should result in a rewarding experience for all lakeshore visitors.

In initiating an active interpretive and educational program, the National Park Service would employ various techniques — information centers, contact stations, interpretive drives, nature trail’s, signs and slide talks. The interpretive drive would introduce the visitor to the entire range of large-scale features. Specific aspects of the lakeshore could be interpreted by nature trails, conducted walks, slide talks, and campfire programs. Plants, birds, animals — or any other topic that is diffused throughout the lakeshore — would be identified and described in slide talks. Biological units and groups of features in place, which could include geology, plants or animals, would be displayed and interpreted by nature trails. Initially, two nature trails are proposed: one on Sand Point with its combined features of bluffs, ponds, and sandy pineland, and the other south of Pine Beach in an unusually interesting pineland bog. Eventually, two more could be provided — one in a mature hardwood stand and the other in the forested part of Grand Sable Dunes.

Summer 2008

(continued from the June & Summer 2008 update)

THE LAKESHORE PROPOSAL

As proposed, the national lakeshore would comprise an area about 35 miles long and 3 miles wide. It would contain approximately 67,000 acres, exclusive of any water area of Lake Superior. (The water boundary lies one-quarter mile offshore.)

The proposal is divided into two zones, with the use and management techniques of each zone differing according to its primary objective.

Land Use Plan

Objectives of the land use plan are to develop the proposed lakeshore for its optimum recreational potential and, at the same time and where possible, to utilize its renewable resources. A two-zone system is recommended to achieve these objectives.

Because the lakeshore zone is more richly endowed with scenic, scientific, and inspirational values than the inland buffer zone, it has the greater capacity to provide for public enjoyment. Consequently, its primary use will be for inspirational, educational and recreational purposes.

The inland buffer zone lacks dramatic features but is important for recreational development and stabilization and protection of the streams and watershed. It would, therefore, be managed for the fullest economic utilization of the renewable resources though sustained timber yield and other resource management practices compatible with the purposes of the national lakeshore.

Types f uses consistent with the objectives of the lakeshore include sightseeing, hiking, picnicking, camping, boating, canoeing, tobogganing, cross-country skiing, hunting, and fishing. Facilities to serve these activities would be placed at strategic locations, and would include information centers, contact stations, campgrounds, picnic sites, roads, hiking trails, boat docks, interpretive devices, campfire circles, and nature tails.

The Proposed Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore Map

The proposed development of the lakeshore includes 23 key locations. [Note: The actual development of the lakeshore varies significantly from what was originally proposed. The changes where present are noted below.]

1. VISITOR CENTER: Information, interpretive exhibits, trail terminal, view of Grand Island. [Note: this center was constructed at Munising Falls, which does not have a view of Grand Island.]
2. SAND POINT OVERLOOK: Parking area, interpretation station, nature trail, view of Grand Island, South Bay and Sand Point.
3. PICTURED ROCKS OVERLOOK: Parking area, interpretation station, view of Pictured Rocks and Grand Island. [Note: This overlook was not constructed. Instead, a cross-country ski trail was installed.]
4. MINERS CASTLE POINT: Picnic area, parking, sanitary facility, interpretation station, view of Miners Castle, Miners Beach, Pictured Rocks and Grand Island. Access by spur road.
5. MINERS BASIN CAMPGROUND: Camping units, sanitary facilities, access by Miners Castle Point spur road. [Note: A campground was not installed at this location.]
6. MINERS FALLS: Parking area, interpretation station, trail to falls.
7. MINERS BASIN OVERLOOK: Parking area, interpretation station, view of Miners Basin, Miners Beach, Miners Castle and Grand Island. [Note: This development was not implemented.]
8. PAINTED COVES OVERLOOK: Parking area, interpretation station, view of Painted Coves, Mosquito Harbor, Indian Head, Miners Castle, Miners Beach, and Grand Island. [Note: This development was not implemented.]
9. MOSQUITO FALLS: Parking area, interpretation station, trail to falls. [Note: This parking area was merged with Number 8.]
10. CHAPEL FALLS AND LAKE: Parking, interpretation station, view of Chapel Falls and Chapel Lake. [Note: A parking area was constructed, but it was moved well back away from the lake and falls.]
11. CHAPEL BASIN OVERLOOK: Parking, interpretation station, trail to Chapel Rock, loop trail along Grand Portal, view of Chapel Basin, chapel beach and Little Chapel Lake. [Note: This development was not implemented.]
12. SPRAY FALLS OVERLOOK: Parking, interpretation station, trail to falls, view of Grand Portal. [Note: This development was not implemented.]
13. WEST BEAVER BASIN OVERLOOK: Parking, interpretation station, view of Beaver Lake, Little Beaver Lake, Trappers Lake and western portion of beaver basin. Access by spur road. [Note: Instead a campground and interpretive trail were installed at this location..]
14. MID BEAVER BASIN OVERLOOK: Parking area, interpretation station, view of central portion of Beaver Basin, Beaver Lake, sandstone mesa and upper Seven Mile Creek. [Note: This development was not implemented.]
15. EAST BEAVER BASIN OVERLOOK: Parking, interpretation station, view of eastern part of Beaver Basin, Seven Mile Creek, Seven Mile Lake, Hyde Lakes and the sandstone mesa. Access by spur road. [Note: This development was not implemented.]
16. PINE BLUFF BEACH CAMPGROUND: Camping units, sanitary facilities, beachcombing, sunbathing, hiking. [Note: A primitive rustic campground was installed at Pine Bluff, as well as at several other locations along the lakeshore that were not included in the original proposal.]
17. PINE BLUFF BEACH OVERLOOK: Parking area, interpretation station, nature trail, picnic area, sanitary facilities, view of Pine Bluff Beach. [Note: This development was not implemented.]
18. AU SABLE POINT OVERLOOK: Parking area, interpretation station, view of Au Sable Point, conifer forest, bogs, ridge and swale landscape. [Note: This development was not implemented. However, drive-in rustic campgrounds were installed at 12-Mile Beach and the Hurricane River. An interpretive trail was also installed at 12-Mile Beach and the Au Sable Lighthouse has and is continuing to be developed to return it to the 1910 era. ]
19. LOG SLIDE OVERLOOK: Parking area, interpretation station, access to dunes, view of Au Sable Point, Au Sable Lighthouse, Grand Sable Banks, and Grand Sable Dunes.
20. GRAND SABLE LAKE CAMPGROUND: Camping units, sanitary facilities, nature tail, campfire circle, access to Grand Sable Lake with boat launch, swimming, water skiing, boating, canoeing, and bathhouses. [Note: Although the campground was never implemented, there are picnic areas, access to the dunes, and a boat ramp. Recently, a primitive one-unit camp site was constructed on Sable Lake that is accessible only by boat.]
21. GRAND SABLE LAKE OVERLOOK PARKING AREA: Interpretation station, view of Grand Sable Lake. [Note: Although no interpretive center was constructed, a day-use picnic area was installed.]
22. GRAND SABLE CONTACT STATION: Information, interpretive exhibits, trail terminal, picnic area, access to beach and dunes. [Note: Although a picnic area was not installed, a cross-country ski trail was implemented.]
23. GRAND SABLE FALLS: Parking area, interpretation station, trail to Grand Sable Falls. [Note: The cross-country ski trail connects the Falls to the Grand Sable Visitors Center #22. Also, a Sanitary Station was also constructed.]

Summer 2008

(continued from the June 2008 update)

Plant Life

Forests of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula are a transition between northern hardwoods and northern conifers. In some locations the primary stands are deciduous trees with an occasional mixture of pine and hemlock; elsewhere the steeple-topped spruce and fir predominate.

In the northern hardwood-conifer type forests, extensive stands may be almost pure maple but usually some beech, ash, basswood, paper or yellow birch are intermixed. The conifers, when present are generally white pine and hemlock although red pine, white and black spruce, balsam fir, and northern white cedar occur in some locations.

The conifer, or boreal type forest is not extensive in the Pictured Rocks region. Where the dominant conifers do stand, with their associated white birch, quaking aspen and mountain ash, the visitor can savor the essence of the north woods.

Other interesting types of tree communities include the coniferous swamps (containing the black spruce, fir, tamarack and white cedar) and, on drier sandy soils, stands of red or jack pines with an under story of bracken ferns.

Along with the trees are many interesting smaller plants. In the spring the yellow violets, squirrel corn, Dutchman’s-breeches, orchids, trilliums and pitcher plants add their beauty. When fall arrives the blueberries join the maple, beech, aspen, and other trees in an array of color.

Animal Life

Michigan’s Upper Peninsula is well known for its variety of animal life. The large number of whitetail deer present is indicated by a definite browse line within the area. Bear range throughout the area and wolf may occur. Otter, coyote, fox, bobcat, porcupine, beaver, and snowshoe hare are typical large mammals.

Northwood birds are well represented. The goshawk, bald eagle, ruffed grouse, three-towed woodpecker, gray jay, raven, hermit thrush, golden crowned kinglet, the northern warblers and the crossbills inhabit the proposed lakeshore. Loons and black ducks are seen on the larger inland lakes.

A combination of cool climate and pure water of the streams and lakes provide an excellent habitat for fish. Brook trout are in the streams. In the spring, steelhead trout from Lake Superior enter the streams to spawn. Larger lakes contain spiny-rayed fish and members of the pike family.

Climate

The climate of Pictured Rocks region is common to the northern Great Lakes — severe winters and warm summers. Marine influence of Lake Superior, however, has a moderating effect on temperatures: winters are milder and summers cooler than locations farther inland from the lake. The average daily high in the Pictured Rocks region during July is 78 degrees, the low is 53 degrees; in January the average daily high is 27 degrees; the low is 12 degrees.

Precipitation is rather evenly distributed throughout the year, with a slight increase during the warmer months. The area averages about 31 inches of precipitation annually, including nearly 100 inches of snowfall. In Michigan this amount of snowfall is exceeded only the 160 inches in the mountain range along the northwestern edge of the Upper Peninsula.

June 2008

While combing through the museum’s archives, I recently came across the original proposal for creating the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, which was established by legislation passed in 1966. Grand Marais is the eastern entrance to the national park. I will relay interesting information from the report beginning this month, and continuing in the next month or so. For brevity, I will edit and shorten some of the sections.

Introduction and Summary

The National Park Service first became concerned with the Pictured Rocks area in 1957-58 during the Great Lakes Shoreline Recreation Area Survey. In the survey report released in 1960, the area was rated as one of the five areas on the Great Lakes of national significance. In June 1961, legislation was first introduced calling for establishment of the park.

The Pictured Rocks — multicolored sandstone cliffs, 50 to 200 feet high, and stretching about 15 miles along the shore of Lake Superior — have long been a major tourist attraction. But, although they are the dominant attraction of this region, people also come to see and enjoy the Grand Sable Banks and Dunes, the Beaver Basin, the picturesque inland lakes, and the numerous waterfalls.

With each season of the year having its own particular visitor attraction — forest wildflowers in spring, cool forests and lakes in summer, yellow birches and scarlet sugar maples in autumn, and snowscapes in winter — the area would no doubt receive year-round use.

The proposed lakeshore would be developed for the optimum use and enjoyment by the public. A minimum land area of approximately 28,000 acres, referred to as the shoreline zone, is deemed essential for protection, development and use of the primary features of the area. This shoreline zone is a continuous strip along Lake Superior, from Munising to Grand Marais, averaging about 1.4 mile in width.

Recommendations

The Department of the Interior recommends:

1. Establishment, as a unit of the National Park System, of a Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore lying between Munising and Grand Marais, Michigan.
2. Acquisition by the Federal Government of a 28,000-acrea lakeshore zone.
3. Designation of a 39,000-acre buffer zone to provide protection of the watersheds and the forest setting.
4. Construction by the National Park Service of a non-commercial scenic road to facilitate circulation within the lakeshore.
5. Designation of the Beaver Basin as a natural area, containing only trails and minimum facilities necessary for the visitor’s enjoyment.
6. Construction of a hiking trail along the entire length with hiker’s campgrounds at convenient locations.
7. Emphasis is given to providing public use facilities which encourage enjoyment through observation and appreciation of its natural values.
8. Hunting and fishing in accordance with applicable Federal and state laws.

Development

Private developments within the area are located principally at Miners Beach, Grand Sable, and Beaver Lakes. Of the 164 structures within the proposed lakeshore, 60 percent are seasonal cabins, 25 percent non-farm residence, 2 percent farms, 7 percent commercial, and 6 percent miscellaneous buildings.

Land Ownership

The proposed area would contain about 67,376 acres of land and inland lakes. About 6,320 acres of water in Lake Superior are included within the boundaries. Categories of land ownership are:

Owner	Shoreline Zone	Buffer Zone	Total
Federal	781	1,572	2,353
State	5,140	14,911	20,051
Other Public	77	4	81
Private	22,440	20,868	43,126
Inland Water area			1,765
Lake Superior area			6,320
Total Acres of proposed National Lakeshore			73,696

Note: To be continued next month

The Gem of the Month for May includes two old postcards I found among my mother’s things. The first is a picture of Sable Lake taken from the bluff of the dunes. The photo was taken by John Penrod of the Penrod/Hiawatha Company out of Berrien Center, MI. On the back there is the following notation:

Grand Sable Lake and Dunes — This is a part of the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, a region of outstanding beauty between Grand Marais and Munising, Michigan.

Although there is no date on the postcard, the fact that it mentions the National Lakeshore places it after 1966, when the lakeshore was formed by federal legislation. Also, the existence of the swimming raft and buoyed swim area dates the picture to the late 1960s or early 1970s. Lastly, note that this picture was taken well before the new road was constructed in the 1990s, which changed the shoreline of the lake and eliminated most of the swimming area.

The second picture, also taken by John Penrod, is of an assortment of Lake Superior agates. On the back of the postcard is the following information:

Lake Superior Agates from Northern Michigan. A beauty often hidden by a rough outer surface reveals vivid colors and strong translucent designs when cut and polished.

I am not sure where and when this photo was taken, but there are some nice agates among the assortment!

April 2008

The following newspaper clipping was found among my mother’s keepsakes. For those of you who have been to Grand Marais and noticed the wood tiled ceilings in various homes and businesses (including the Lake Superior Brewing Company), these tiles were made at the factory owned by Harry Habbershaw. The cedar stump constructed by Mr. Habbershaw survived until around 8 years ago when it finally succumbed to the weather and rotted away. Township officials recorded the history from the stump and hope some day to reconstruct it.

Cedar Stump Speaks of Pride, Joy and Sadness
By Harry C. Sahs
Detroit News (1962)

A tree woodsmen spared when they cleared land for the village of Grand Marais, Mich., lived on to tell the story — literally. A slab cut from a red cedartree well over 100 years old stands today in the village square. Lettered on its varnished face is the story of a town which has known joy, pride, fortune, disaster, famine and near-despair.

It took Harry Habbershaw, president of Superior Wood Products, Inc., and a college student, Dawn Ostrander, half a year to gather accurate information and to inscribe it on the tree trunk. Examples:

• 1820 “I’m a very small tree. I watch Lewis Cass survey the land on which I stand.”
• 1880 “A new lumber mill has things buzzing.”
• 1900 “Grand Marais is now a town of over 3,000 people. The population is growing and so am I.” (Population in 1962 has dwindled to about 600.)
• 1904 “Fire destroyed an entire village block.”
• 1933 “Depression and everybody looks hungry. Sixteen trolling craft attract sportsmen.”
• 1955 “The lamprey eel has taken its toll.”
• 1960 “The town’s efforts are directed to the tourist trade. The town has a new face for our first homecoming.”

Not yet recorded is last year’s disastrous fire at Superior Wood. The firm is hoping to rebuild with aid of a government loan.

The cedar stands ready to receive the town’s final chapters.

March 2008

While in the Sarasota, Florida area in March, one of the places we visited was the Crowley Museum. I must admit that the $7.00 admission per person a little steep for what the museum had to offer, but there were some interesting items. One of my favorite items was a list of the rules for teachers from 1915. Although these were the rules for the school system located around 15 miles southeast of Sarasota, I imagine that similar rules were in place in Grand Marais. If these rules were in effect today, do you think there would be any takers for the job?

1915 Rules for Teachers

1. You will not marry during the term of your contract.
2. You are not to keep company with men.
3. You must be home between the hours of 8pm and 6am unless attending a school function.
4. You may not loiter downtown in ice cream stores.
5. You may not travel beyond the city limits unless you have the permission of the chairman of the board.
6. You may not ride in a carriage or automobile with any man unless he is your father or your brother.
7. You may not smoke cigarettes.
8. You may not dress in bright colors.
9. You may under no circumstances dye your hair.
10. You must wear at least two petticoats.
11. Your dress must not be any shorter than two inches above the ankle.
12. To keep the schoolroom neat and clean, you must: sweep the floor at least once daily; scrub the floor at least once a week with hot soapy water; clean the blackboards at least once a day; and start the fire at 7am so the room will be warm by 8am.

The photo below is from the class in this Crowley school in 1915.

Also at the museum, was a carved dancing puppet. Below is a picture. It reminds me of some of the dancing puppets that the museum founder, Axel, carved.